Fiordland National Park (Part 2)

After being waylaid for a day holding out for better weather, we set off on a gloriously sunny Waitangi Day on the renowned 119km Te Anau – Milford Highway into the heart of Fiordland National Park. Get ready for a substantial use of superlatives and prepare for some invented superlatives added into the mix too…

THE MILFORD ROAD (DAY 1)

On our way up the Milford Road (the most scenically exquisite road EVER!) we made no less than SIX stops before reaching our campsite. There were just so many awesome viewpoints and nature walks along the way! The grand sight at the U-shaped Eglinton Valley with a rugged mountain backdrop was just WOAH!

The Eglinton Valley

And the Lake Gunn Nature Walk through the mossy forest and river was enchanting – seriously I felt like I was in a fairytale movie set. Even our basic campsite, with toilets of the non-flushing variety, was surrounded by impressive mountains.

THE MILFORD ROAD (DAY 2)

A highly anticipated day awaited us: we were on our way to Milford Sound!

We got up at 6am to reach the end of the road and NZ’s famous sound fiord in time for our 9am cruise (how fancy!) On our way up the road we passed through a long tunnel in the mountain and the wow wow wow Cleddau Valley with unreal mountain views before arriving at the roads end and the shore of Milford Sound.

Early morning at Milford Sound

Although it was a clear, sunny morning it was super chilly – hence the woolly hats! But with a 9am sailing with Southern Discoveries we bagged a bit of a bargain and had lots of room out on the deck which really made a difference.

Sailing out from the ferry terminal we were faced with the iconic Mitre Peak rising out of the inky waters. Further into the photogenic fiord we ogled at the most vertical sea cliffs jutting over a kilometre out the water, with their jagged peaks, clinging trees and waterfalls tumbling down the sides. And below us – an unexpected but INCREDIBLE bonus – a pod of bottlenose dolphins frolicking in the water!! WOW!

Continuing along the edge of the fiord we got SO close to the cliff faces and up to the waterfalls with rainbows dancing on their surface. At Stirling Falls we got really close… if we’d had a cup, we could have sampled the water.

The 1 3/4 hour on the water just sailed by so afterwards we prolonged our experience by taking in the sights along the Foreshore Walk.

 

With the rest of the day ahead of us, we seized the opportunity to embark on the Key Summit hike (part of the Routeburn Track) offering panoramic views of entire valleys and surrounding mountains of the Southern Alps.

It’s places like this that just make me feel so alive.

THE MILFORD ROAD (DAY 3)

Our ultimate day (and I’m so thankful we stayed the extra day) involved a more strenuous hike/scramble up a rocky forest path beside gushing cascades of crystal clear water BUT we were rewarded with wooooowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww views! Keep-it-cool Rich said it was “spectacular“; I said it was quite probably the most overwhelmingly beautiful place we have seen in NZ. That place is Lake Marian.

A glistening turquoise lake enveloped by snowcapped mountains complete with cascading waterfalls. A picture-perfect “pinch-me” moment.

If you want to see me freeze off my extremities in the lake click here. (Rich did go in too – in his boxers – and I quote, “but they were clean on today” #boysaregross).

Our Fiordland finale came with supper and a sunset over Lake Manapouri (van life is the best!) And so we left with beautiful memories, photos that don’t do the place justice, many itchy bites and a broken washing up bowl.

CAMPERVAN LESSON NUMBER 14 – don’t drive over your belongings.

Emma x

Whanganui Journey (Day 2) – ‘Bridge to Nowhere’

The next day, with water bottles refilled with rainwater (feeling very at-one with nature) and covered in not-so-at-one-with-nature bug spray (I basically airbrush every square millimetre of my lower legs… so the bugs can bugger off) we settled back into our rhythm and began paddling the 29km to our next overnight stay.

With one full day’s canoeing experience behind us, it was time to take down the ‘L’ plates as we had to negotiate some rapids (which at the time were hardcore). Remembering the sound advice to “look for the ‘V'” we diligently looked for the ‘V’, paddled our soggy bottoms off and praised the LoTR that we stayed in our vessel.

It was a relief to then land safely at Mangapurua and stretch our legs on a walk to the Bridge to Nowhere… which doesn’t exactly do what it says on the tin since it can be accessed from both ends. Nevertheless it was an impressive sight in the middle of nowhere. The fast forward a few more hours of meandering through more stunning scenery and we arrived at Tieke Kainga – the only former marae site (Maori meeting house) that doubles as a Great Walks Hut.

On arrival we (and the other guests) were welcomed by the Maori hosts and invited to participate in a powhiri which involved a speech (from the men) and a song (from the women) from our native country (I chose ‘Row Your Boat’ to stick to the theme), gift-giving and hongi. (Hongi is where foreheads and noses are pressed together whilst shaking hands – thankfully we managed to coordinate this without embarrassment).

A little later, just after eating our rice and bean combo 2, the water-cycle chose to express itself in the form of a raging thunderstorm.

Suffice to say we were glad to be off the river at point.

Tewhakarewarewatangaoteopetauaawahiao

With Rotorua having a significant Maori population, we figured it would be a good opportunity to experience and engage with NZ’s indigenous culture. So we opted to visit the traditional village of Tewhakarewarewatangaoteopetauaawahiao (or just Whakarewarewa)…and we’re so glad we did!

The village itself was quite surreal. The people literally live in between steaming vents, hot springs and mud pools! We were shown around by one of the friendly locals who talked us through their way of life, heritage and cultural traditions. We were shown the village meeting house with ancestral stories told through carvings in the structure. We were also shown how traditional ‘hangi’ meals are cooked using hot springs and geothermal steam boxes… if you need to cook a chicken or boil an egg quickly, this method wins hands down! Fortunately the communal naked bathing in the natural oil baths was not an ‘audience participation’ option and instead we were told verbally how the daily ritual takes place.

After our tour, we sat down and watched an incredible cultural performance of Maori songs and dance including chanting, Poi (stick) dancing and the mighty Haka! Seeing pukana (bulging eyes and extended tongues) during a live Haka was as confronting as it was captivating…

After the performance, we explored the nature walks of Whakarewarewa with lookouts to the Pohutu Geyser. Crossing over the steaming lake via the boardwalks and listening to the non-stop bubbling was mystical and magical … (should have been a LOTR or at the very least a Stars in their Eyes filming location). It was also impressive to see native flora, such as Manuka and fern, growing in such a harsh environment.

All in all, experiencing the unique lifestyle of the residents of Whakarewarewa amongst an active thermal reserve was extremely interesting and worthwhile.

The North of the North

Today Rich became a passenger – and no, I wasn’t let loose behind the wheel – we went on a Sand Safari tour!

Exactly 4 weeks on from our trip to the South of North Island, we were to venture to the North of North Island… and the weather couldn’t have been more different on each occasion!

The Aupouri Peninsula (the long and thin bit of land at the very tip of NZ) is home to ‘Ninety Mile Beach’, a huge desert-like expanse of golden sand which is also legally a highway. It is also where car insurance policies run out. Our Dune Rider tour bus however had “no dramas” and cruised effortlessly along with views of the Tasman Sea to the left and great dunes of sand to the right.

After an unexpectedly good BBQ lunch at the picturesque Tapotupotu Bay, we made our way on foot to the Cape Reinga lighthouse which is awesomely situated where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean. It is the most sacred site in Maoridom and felt quite spiritual. Click here for a panoramic video (no prizes for spotting the photo-bomber!)

Next on the itinerary was the part of the tour we had been (nervously -me) waiting for… the SANDBOARDING! We drove up the quicksand stream to the base of the absolutely giant TePaki sand dunes and, after a quick demo and an aerobic workout to clamber to the top, we were soon zipping down the dunes headfirst on the sand boards! Possibly the most fun and certainly the best butt-toning experience of our trip so far!… even if the sand did get everywhere! Click here for video.

The long journey back down the peninsula followed. We passed heaps of avocado orchards (?) and later I had to watch those fortunate non-travel-sick passengers (including Rich) enjoy their ice creams. *Sulks*.

Anyway, for $50 each (less than £30) we’d give the tour 5*.  Sometimes you just gotta give in a be a tourist.